RIVET PRESS PINBALL PRO

The thinned down flange of soft brass, 'folds' around the tool and pushes thru the hole.Ī 1/4' hole in a piece of hard wood would accomplish the same think I think. Generally you need just a light tap with a hammer to get them to push out. Then push the rivet out with a 1/16' harbor freight pin pinch over a 1/4' socket on an extention in my vice as a 'catcher'. If you use a brand new bit 3/16' or 1/4', you can use it to carve the flange down a bit by hand even. Instead I just thin down the rivet flange to paper thinness. It doesnt take much, or many turns at all. Im using a 3/16' drill bit, either in a drill motor if a hand vice (bit holder). You'll need to use a 1/8 in drill bit to drill out the old rivet. Using that method you'll need the rollover punch, an appropriately sized rivet (ideally made of nickel plated brass), and a hammer.

RIVET PRESS PINBALL PRO

I'll have a look for nickel plated brass and try again, thanks for the pro tip! They're very tough so must be pure steel. I've been working with the ones I got with the pinbits pressless rivet kit, and the ones I got with the c-clamp pictured above. Maybe those are the magic words ('nickel plated brass'). Its handy to have a helper hold bulky or wobbly items while you setup and press rivets. Using washers to get the right length works beautifully for me.

If the part is plastic and needs a washer, I place 2 washers, see how it looks, then remove the 2nd washer. If the rivet is slightly higher than the washer, Im good to go. I generally set the rivet up and place a washer over the end to see how it looks. But I find that I get less splitting if the rivet protrudes a bit less, something like just a tiny bit more than the thickness of a backing washer. In our case of using 1/8' rivets, 1/16' works well enough. The 'rule of thumb' is that the protruding part should not exceed 1/2 the diameter of the rivet. Use backup washers to fill in the length or use smaller rivets. They should only protrude 1/16' or less before pressing. They dont need much pressure to clinch them. Riveting is not too difficult but you do need a firm smooth surface to get a clean result: I know the Pintonka one comes with mild steel rivets. Which might be why your seeing it deform, if you're using hard steel rivets. The twisty rivet presses are meant for softer metals.

If the arbortime tool fails me, I'll be sure to use the hammer tool on a concrete floor to prevent what you were experiencing. I figured if the arbortime press doesn't work well, I'll have the amazon as a backup, and will just return it if the arbortime press works fine.

I did end up buying both the amazon riveter and the arbortime rivet press. I ordered the amazon one you picked up before someone mentioned the arbortime/pintonka tool. I also think it would help to have a very heavy work bench over a concrete floor rather than a desk over a wood floor, the latter (which is my setup) probably allows more of the hammer energy to go into bouncing the floor, which means less energy going into deforming the rivet I also think it would help to have a very heavy work bench over a concrete floor rather than a desk over a wood floor, the latter (which is my setup) probably allows more of the hammer energy to go into bouncing the floor, which means less energy going into deforming the rivet IMG_20220121_110834198~2 (resized).jpg I'll wrap that in an old t-shirt or something so I don't scratch up the rivet or ramp. I've bought and cut some angle iron that I will put over wood as a backer. That was for the easy ramp that went on to a flat section.

I then put a thin steel plate (actually a drill hole size gauge) on the desk and found I really messed it up before getting the rivet installed. I found the rivet hammered into my wooden desk before expanding even a little. Someone mentioned that you could use a wood block to back the rivet, but that is not my experience. How did that tool work out for you? I'm in the same boat you were in and just want to make sure the tool made for an easy install.

Rivet press pinball